We just finished our scheduled jaunt to Spokane. It was not initially wine centric as there were convention duties to attend to, exuberant speeches to cheer, glossy agenda buttons and patches to adorn, and political momentum to feed, but we never really can help having wine somewhat on our minds, especially since wine country is all around us. We can smell it. When the fires of unity were finally doused and the rhythmic drums of purposeful democracy temporarily stored away for another day, we decided to head somewhere we had not ventured before: somewhere new, somewhere on a cusp, somewhere on the verge. We were topless, void of metal and vinyl trappings as the high desert heat soaked into our bones: something longed for, something not felt for many months, something welcome. We were covered thick with lotions carrying ratings of high SPF. We overdosed on vitamin D as we were hurling across sage brushed dips and peaks at blistering speeds and trying not to be blistered at the end of the day with burnt skin and a speeding ticket or two. I missed some spots and glowed with sizzled blotches, a minimal searing so not that all uncomfortable. Yet it looked irregular. Pit stops were for re-lathering.

 

Wineries in the Lake Chelan region have an interesting dilemma. Their vineyards take up prime view location where resort real estate prices soar and this adds to the price of product. They still struggle with the State for AVA status, their own designate apart from the collective, and maybe that has to do with the delay. Collectives hate splinters. They aren't as cohesive as other regions like Walla Walla and Red Mountain. We detected a little back biting and dysfunction beyond the boundaries of friendly competition. But the wines are good and we even found distinction and expressive differences, not quite denoting terroir, but place is an underlying factor... especially with the whites. Pinot Gris, Chardonnays, and Rieslings all seemed more aggressive on the finish with respect to fruit and viscosity. The result of cooler nights on top of long sun drenched days? The result of shadeless scorching and the need for pronounced refreshment? I was mostly parched and looking for relief. The reds were as usual thick and coated rather than lively and dancing about with complexity, but is that the result of heat or a standard for accumulating high ratings with oak? Culture versus terroir... is there such a thing anymore?

 

A couple of wineries really stood out. Tsillan (the old spelling) and although they are a little extravagant with imported tile and Napa-esque excessiveness, their wines had the refreshing kick of elevated acidity... very food friendly. The other, the newly formed Karma winery bottled a wonderful sparkling wine fermented in a cave along side a hopefully soon to be State sanctioned Brandy. Sparkling wine in a baked oven environment and brandy for when the sun recedes and the air chills... hmmm. Just add strawberries and cheese please.

 

The wines were pricey. Again, I can't help think that is mostly about the price of land. The million dollar structures probably don't help in a per bottle equation either, but then there is that image thing that adds to value. Should image be included in the concept of terroir? I'm not sure my pockets are deep enough to answer that question. I do know my palate has high expectations.