Libation Station... "The Wine Shop Chronicles"

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Spain via Bordeaux...

This is something a little different for this bog, and it shouldn't be as I am supposedly a wine professional and should be able to apply immediate and mostly accurate sensory input of any given wine with lofty descriptive annunciations regarding the nose and palate on many layered levels and with a stylish prose worthy of any Spewtator or Advocate rater wannabe or is be. The problem is, I have not been that interested in being able to do that, so I have not really honed that area of potential expertise. I have been more into the intricacies of subjective manipulation and reception, my reasonable ability to seek out and find value wines of noted distinction, and humbly present them to the buying public. I'm now questioning myself--if I can train the connection between nose, palate, and cortex with regard to memory, as in, "I know what a pear tastes like, but this doesn't look like a pear, so is it pear I'm tasting?" type stuff. I also feel I don't have that great of a palate. The 19th century artist Paul Cezanne would stare at an apple for 6 hours before lifting his brush. The same attentiveness to process within this context seems as apropos for dissecting wine, I would think.

So my first real Cezanne style attempt at wine analysis is with a Spanish red:
Bogedas Los Aljibes Vina Aljibes Tinto 2004

This is a Bordeaux blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot,and 25% Cabernet Franc. The first whiff after pouring it into the glass confirms the standards associated with this style of wine regardless of the country of origin. It is big and intense on the nose with heavy black and a little red fruit and noticeable tannin. Without a doubt, the first impression is that this is of the new world style that many Spanish winemakers are employing. I have had the bottle open for about 30 minutes and already the tannins have started to cool. I'm still waiting on it to release more than the black current and blackberry flavors. Though it has been aged for at least 9 months on new American and French oak, I'm not getting any toasty syrup which is pleasant and yet there is the hint of vanilla bean. I'm actually wondering why I didn't start a steak on the grill. There is a silky depth to it as it flows back and forth across my tongue, like there is more viscosity to it than there actually is. The finish is smooth and lingers for a little less than I would like, but then this wine is still a little tight. The balance is absolutely wonderful and the tannin structure is definitely present. I remember the 2003 vintage as having more volatile tannin structure. Maybe the superior 2004 vintage across the entire country allowed for a little more subtlety. I would say the 04 requires a little less of a requirement for food. Did I say food? I meant beef. Alcohol is 14% which is reflective of the newer style, but the balance keeps this wine cool. The price of just under $20 is more than welcome, as this quality of wine produced on the West Coast would fetch a higher price.

The winery also doubles as a destination and a stud horse ranch. In the wine industry, it doesn't hurt to be diversified.

3 hours into the breathing process, acidity has moved forward as fruit has retreated. I'm also detecting some minerality... something some people find offensive in Spanish wines. Not me. I now wish I had not wolfed down the tomato, mushroom, onion, and garlic, pasta I fixed for dinner.

Labels:


Posted by RM Dustin :: 7:52 PM :: 2 Comments:

Post / Read Comments

-------------------------------------